VIVA MEXICO 10 - GUADALAJARA

Guadalajara, Guadalajara!!!

The last stop on our Mexican trip. Guadalajara is located in the western-central highlands of Mexico. It's main contributions to the Mexican lifestyle are: tequila, mariachis, wide-brimmed sombreros, rodeos, and the Mexican Hat Dance. Oh, and some of the best food ever!

We saw Ernesto's cousin Mario in San Diego this summer and he invited us to stay at his place. We had taken an overnight bus from Mazatlan and arrived at 7am. Mario was just getting home from going out that night! kids these days! ha! He's 24 and awesome. ...ah the college life! After napping a few hours we were ready to hit the city.

It was a Sunday so the center was packed with families. There were many statues and fountains that unfortunately I don't know the names of, street vendors selling clothes, handicrafts and food were lining the sidewalks. What a cool city!

The main market is called San Juan de Dios, and it is humongous! It is 3 stories high and covers two city blocks. While sniffing out some good food, I ran into this chivo (goat) promoting goat birria.

At this stand a man prepares the city's famous sandwich, torta ahogadas.

Although we are no strangers to taking city buses to get around, it was nice that Mario had a car. He really knows the city and seemed happy to show us some places. After seeing downtown, we visited Tlaquepaque, an up-scale artist community where abandon old mansions have been restored into contemporary design boutiques. Oh if I only had a house there! The decor was unbelievable. Walking from store to store was enjoyable with the charming streets and many restaurants.

You will find everything here: wood carvings, sculptures, wrought iron, furniture, ceramics, jewelry, leather goods, candles and textiles. I WILL come back when I have a house!

Inviting eateries were calling our names, and since we were craving seafood, we went where everyone goes for seafood in Tlaquepaque, to Mariscos Progreso. The ceviche tostadas were superb and the cerveza was so cold!

In the central plaza girls were doing a cultural dance on a stage. A pineapple dance?

We made it just before closing to the this park. (I can't remember the name) A canyon so green and vast I couldn't believe we were still in a city the size of Guadalajara.

Here is my personal graphic designer working diligently on my business cards. I can't thank him enough! Mario studied architecture and has great style! Maybe I can get help with a house next??

It was a project, let me tell you. Im not the most decisive person in the world and when presented with too many font and placement options, I break down and tell someone else to decide. Then I had to decide the paper. UGH! Here is Gonzalo, the guy who owns the printing business. We met him by chance in Mazatlan on the beach and I took his details so he could do my cards. ps. He really isn't cross eyed, he's just being funny.

When we were at the Green Mug Cafe, I saw a flyer that Lila Downs was doing a show in Guadalajara that week. If you have never heard of her, listen here as she performs She has the most amazing voice. Highs and lows that seem impossible for a women to reach. If you have seen the movie Frida, you will recognize her voice as she sung several of the songs.

I admire her not only for her precious voice, but for her amazing style. She is from Oaxaca Mexico, much spent much of her time in the US. Her mother is a Mixtec indian from San Miguel el Grande and her father from Colorado. I love how she celebrates her heritage with ethnic clothes and extravagant jewelry and always much color. In this concert she was wearing an arm band of feathers and I was so inspired by it. I think she [along with many other Mexicans artisans] has inspired me to be bold in using color. It is invigorating and it makes me happy.

The concert was at Teatro Diana, and ours seats were wonderful. Ernesto and I were both so happy with the performance. In awe, more like it. Money well spent.

In Guadalajara, they are famous for this delicious sandwich called torta ahogada, which means "drunken sandwich". There are many sandwich shops serving these. Mario took me to his favorite place called Tortas Toño. Ernesto was watching football, so when we picked him up, I told him he had to try one. Mario took us to his #2 favorite, a street side cart, and Ernesto ordered his own. He was equally in love with the torta.

Mario's apartment is in a beautiful area. Right outside his apartment is this cool fountain.

On a side note: This is what happens when you are 37 and try to party with 24 year olds. It was 3pm.

There is no shortage of great restaurants in Guadalajara. One night we went to dinner at La Tequila, an upscale place that Mario recommended to us.

Ernesto holds up a fanned out menu (the agave plant) which is only the of tequilas that the restaurant offers.

This picture was taken at the entrance which had all the bottles on display, and a mosaic chef chair. um bort bort bort

Before leaving Guadalajara, I wanted to check out the other hot spot for shopping for all things Mexican. Tonala is about 25 minutes from the center and you will find similar finds as in Tlaquepaque, but Tonala is more rustic, not quite as touristy, and this means that you will find better prices. Since this was the last trip on our Mexican tour, I wanted to buy everything my heart desired (that could fit in my checked luggage)...oh it desired so much.

Talavera pottery is one of my favorite things. The bright colors of paint on ceramic are oh so beautiful. If you aren't familiar with it check out some pictures here. Ernesto picked out some huge bowls that are perfect for soups and pozole.

There we artisans working out in the open at several stores and I really enjoyed watching these guys blowing glass, what an amazing craft.

There shop had tons of great glasses, pitchers, and great shot glasses, which Ernesto thought we really needed. They are really cute, and anytime Ernesto actually takes interest in shopping I think it's great and encourage it. I don't want to be the only one buying stuff.

Teacup chihuahua for sale...he really fits in a teacup.

Neto was on a hunt to bring home a Katrina. Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) was coming up and we saw them everywhere, this is the one we fell in love with, but it was a little to big for my luggage....only $70! It paper mache and of course I love the color!

This picture makes me laugh, because you can't get much more stereo typical than this!

This man was carrying this stack of birdies in cages like a backpack.

No market would be complete without a good plate of corn with lime, chile and salt!

The night before we left, Mario took us to the arches entering the city, I forget the name.

I like how this shot turned out with the blurring lights of cars whipping by.

We walked through a plaza and there were tons of locals just hanging out. There was music playing and couples were dancing,

Wh=e finished off our last night in Guadalajara by trying the tacos de cabeza (head tacos) at a little tacos stand in the plaza. The place was swarmed and Mario told us his tacos are known by the locals and last only a very short time before he sells out.

Head tacos and something sweet ...a proper meal! The churros guy was set up right next to the tacos and it was cool to watch him pipe in the dough and see how it cooks up into a delicious doughnut.

A special thanks to Ernesto's generous, stylish, smart, fun tour guide primo Mario! Im so glad we stayed with him and I got to know him better. He is such a great guy and I owe him for my logo design, which I am still loving! Gracias!

Finally, this wraps up my 10 part Viva Mexico series I hope you enjoyed it! Maybe you feel inspired to visit Mexico? You may have a friend to visit there soon.......hmmmmm, Im not saying anything, but there is always that chance!

VIVA MEXICO 9 - MAZATLAN

Mazatlan was the 9th stop in our Mexican tour. It was such a relief too when we arrived on our bikes. We had no agenda and I really had no desire to explore. I wanted to relax on the beach. period. Ernesto's family was there for a couple days with us and we enjoyed hanging out and eating (the main focus of every Mexican family).

Normally I would want to walk everywhere, especially in a beach town, but after the 200 mile bikeride I was happy that no one in Ernesto's family wanted to walk. ha! We got around on the little open air taxi's called pulmanias. It was HOT there and they were refreshing in the humidity.

I do get some attention in Mexico when walking the streets. This guy whistled at me while I was walking in front of his restaurant. I usually don't respond to this, but I went straight to him.

There were 10 tios from ernestos family and his cousin Lucy. Traveling in a group of 13? for two weeks? I must say it's really impressive that they all get along so well, most families can't do this at their age [or any other]. We patiently sat on the sidewalks while some tias went shopping. Nobody cared. There was no agenda. No one was in a rush. I married into a Mexican family.

All the Espinoza's were already checked in to the Hotel San Diego (how appropriate!) It was a great location, right across the street from the beach on the main drag in "new" Mazatlan. The beach is beautiful there. White sand and very blue water. Water that looked so inviting, but due to side effects of biking 200 miles, certain parts of my body would not react well to salt water. (do I have to say it?) I still enjoyed it though. Im a beach girl in any way, shape or form. There are several rocky islands as you see in the background. There are many boat tours or "booze cruises" that take you for the day to explore. Ernesto's parents and tios went one day while Lucy Neto and I did absolutely nothing on the beach. And loved it.Tourism is the bread & butter of Mazatlan and all the vendors cater to the tourists on the beach. You can shop right from your lounge chair. Jewelry, sunglasses, sarongs, baskets, pottery, braids, or henna tattoos. My favorite beach shopping is for the food. Ceviche anyone? Oh yes! You know we had to buy a couple ceviche tostadas go with our beers. Mazatlan is in the state of Sinaloa, and is known for it's seafood. We took full advantage of this, eating seafood everyday and eating it on the beach. Welcome to Mazatlan! I was also introduced to a delicious vanilla soda from Mazatlan called ToniCol. I had this on the home stretch of the bikeride and think it may have been the sugar kick that got me to the finish line. So sweet, so good! Gracias ToniCol! Lucy, Neto and I took a pulmania to "old" Mazatlan for dinner one night. The old town was so cool, this is where you'll find all the Mexican charm of the city. (new Mazatlan can feel a bit too Americanized with the huge hotels with cheezy tourist shops) The old part has gone through a major revival in the last 10 years, and is, in my opinion, the best part of the city. There was a concert going on that night in the center and all the restaurants had outdoor seating, it was great for people watching.We ate at a restaurant called Pedro y Lola, which is named after 2 beloved Mexican singers Pedro Infante and Lola Beltran. It was featured in Food & Wine Magazine in October 2008. Im not sure if it was sitting under the warm glow of the lights in the square that evening, or the 3 peice band playing on the sidewalk, but it was there that I ate the best pulpo alajillo (garlic octopus) I have ever had. No, wait, I am sure. It was the best pulpo ever, the best! Oh, and the young girls were flirting with Neto so he would buy us flowers. After dinner, we wandered the cobblestone streets, and hung out on the benches of the plazas. The next day the whole family 13 of us took a couple taxis back to the old town. They were all leaving that afternoon and we told them how nice it was and that they had to see this area of town before they go. We walked to a couple plazas and just poked around the streets taking pictures. Here is Ernesto with his dad and 2 tios.

...and again with his mom and 2 tios

The next pictures are of the Catedral in the center, and some of the old colorful buildings and streets of Old Mazatlan.
Later that afternoon, after the family had left, we were invited to a carne asada by a couple new friends we met on the bikeride. Eliazar and Abraham are in their late 50's to early 60's and do the bikeride every year. They live in Durango and have this condo about 20 minutes down the beach from crazy Mazatlan. The beach was pristine and the beach less crowded. Their condo is a 2bd/2ba is in a high-rise and has a huge pool and grills outside, it's really like a resort. And by the way we were told to come stay when ever we want...anyone need a vacation?? The cookout was fun. Lots of food, tequila and beer. One lady tried to "get the gringa" by giving me a really hot pepper because she thought I couldn't handle it! ha! I think she thought I was going to cry, but I just got up and put another on my plate. I love hot peppers I told her. (and hello? Im married to a Mexican) Eliazar had this little muscle stimulater thingy. Have you ever tried this? You wire yourself up and then adjust the strength of the electromagnectic waves. It makes your muscles contract. It was such a weird sensation, but after I got used to it, it felt good. Eliazar uses it to relax and I could see how that helps. I had it on my back and Neto tried it on his leg. We turned it up full strength.

The day ended with fun in the water and a beautiful sunset. Ay, la vida mexicana!

The next day we visited the tiny pueblo of Quelite, one hour outside of Mazatlan. It was so cute and quiet. Eliazar and Abraham invited us. They said we had to eat at this restaurant called:

They were right, it was the most unique place. An experience. They had birds everywhere, so of course I loved it right away.The most charming part was the decor. Open air, full of lush plants and Mexican history on the walls. The urinal in the mens baño was a huge ceramic pig. In the womens baño, the sink was a copper pot and with the water spilling out of two old trumpets. There was so much to look at, all while eating amazing food too.

This is one of my favorite pictures that I took. The colors and simplicity. I say this only from an artistic standpoint, since I know the actual conditions for the bird are not the greatest. Unfortunately, you will see this all over mexico. Cages are hung by a nail on the outside of houses. Im a total bird lover, but would never put a parrot in a cage this small. (just so we are clear)

I am also loving this picture. Classic. Mexico. Everyone in Mexico was preparing for Independence day celebrations on Sept 18. I had to stop this young girl on the street in her awesome outfit to get her picture. She was going to be performing in cultural dances later that day.

This is cool. As we were sitting on the front porch of the restaurants in rocking chairs, I noticed that the roof accross the street had cacti growing out of the tiles?? Do you see?

After lunch we stopped for a respado (ice slushy) made with fresh mango and tamarind at a little outdoor shop. Here is Neto with our new Mexican buddies! On to Guadalajara! The last stop on the tour. To be continued..................